Nissan Cars & Trucks - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support
Need photos of alternator and starter wiring on 93
there are 4 wires go to alternator
2 white wires go to battery
1 black wire goes to ground
1 yellow/black goes to bulb check relay
starter has only two wires
the big one goes to the battery and the small one goes to ignition system. you can not mix the terminals because the size of the studs on the starter
on Jul 07, 2020
How can i decode MY nissan cube 2010 system please
You presumably want to decode the security system. If it is possible on your model it is only recommended for good cars with a low market value.
Early security systems were less reliable than today and decoding often represented a cheaper method of getting an older car back on the road.
It was necessary to remove the engine management computer and send it to a specialist repairer of car modules and ECUs.
Since those days vehicle electronics have not only become digital but modules and ECUs have multiplied and become integrated. I doubt it is possible to decode the system these days but there is no harm in asking a specialist auto locksmith or ECU repairer...
Nissan Cars &...
on Jul 05, 2020
I have a 2003 nissan xterra...can't get the idiot
Take it to a different shop. Something is wrong with it. However, when the airbag light is on, that means the airbag will not deploy in an accident. You should have that fixed first. The dealership is the best option for making the keyless entry work. If this was at all helpful, please rate. Thanks for
on Jul 05, 2020
Transmission problem for nissan maxima 04
I don't know if this is the way to fix this problem, but i found this site in the internet with this information, i hope it can help:
There seem to be some common issues among Nissan Maxima owners who have the 2000-2004 models. These tend to range from intermittent rough idle to reported transmission problems, to a drastic decrease in performance. We are looking in to the real cause of the problems, and offering our advice on what to do, and what NOT to do.
We looked into how to troubleshoot the intermittent rough idle problem in the latest article. It can be attributed to the ignition coils, which have proven to go bad in the first few years of ownership. The next issue we are going after is the supposed transmission problems I have been hearing about. This problem has been described as a hesitation in the shifting from 1st to 2nd, or 2nd to 3rd under half to full throttle. It also causes hard shifting, and the appearance of a "rev limiter" around 4000 rpms. The TSB (technical service bulletin) out for this says that the solenoid control assembly in the transmission is to blame. This assembly is responsible for the correct shift times for the transmission. Sounds like the right answer, right?
Maybe. These control assemblies can go bad, but it is only due to the build up of debris in the transmission system. This debris comes from clutch material and burned transmission fluid. With that much clutch material worn down, you would most likely have some slipping in the transmission occurring. If it is indeed slipping, then I would look at a transmission rebuild or replacement. Simply replacing the control assembly would just delay the inevitable, and cost you 500-750 dollars.
The issue I have described is NOT the transmission. I repeat. NOT the transmission. In my example, I have not described any slipping of the transmission. In a lot of cases, this "transmission" symptom is accompanied by a pinging engine and low performance. This is most likely a fuel related problem. The ping is from a lean fuel mixture (not enough gas). The poor performance could be from the same cause. If the knock sensor or the trans solenoids were bad, you would eventually get an engine trouble code from the ECU/TCU. The first place to check is the fuel filter in the gas tank. There is not an external filter on these cars, and that filter in the tank is SELDOM changed. The new filter should fix the engine ping, the performance issues, and the "transmission" type symptoms. The "rev limiter" feel is from the engine not having enough fuel to continue raising the rpms. The hard shift is from the transmission anticipating the faster shift needed at higher rpms, but the engine is not performing correctly, so the acceleration is not there to complete the smooth shift. All these systems work intricately together. Lower the fuel pressure available to the injectors, and all of the above symptoms can occur.
Be sure to have the codes checked. In a lot of cases I have seen, these issues come and go with no check engine light. That is a good sign it could be the fuel filter. You may also have a dirty throttle body, which I recommend cleaning when you replace the filter.
Good luck, and stay TUNED!
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on Jul 01, 2020
I have a 1.5 dci nissan bakkie
Bakkie only starts when I spray quick start into the throttle but when I switch it off then wont start again until I use quick start again
What can it be
Reputedly a Renault engine and reckoned to be one of the best small diesels. It isn't a good idea to use an ether spray regularly.
The reasons why a diesel doesn't start and from your description doesn't even start when hot (?), can be many from poor compressions, low cranking speed, preheat not working, bad injector spray patterns or even the high pressure pump being slow to raise the main fuel rail pressure to the required level.
The common rail diesel has electric injectors controlled by computer and if the fuel pressure isn't raised to that required in the expected time the computer will not begin injection so perhaps that is the trouble, using easy start will make the engine turn faster perhaps overcoming the problem.
I wonder if it starts with a tow without the ether...
Once what can be checked has been checked and repaired if necessary, the high pressure side will need expert attention with some good diagnostic equipment.
Nissan Cars &...
on Jun 28, 2020
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