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2005 Honda CRF450R bogs on low end. The harder I try to accelerate, the worse it is. It has an aftermarket exhaust with a spark arrestor. Will this affect the jetting? Cranks and idles pretty good. @

Posted by Will Mooty on

2 Answers

Gregg Mahin

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  • Honda Master
  • 63,525 Answers

Hi, Will engine "BOG" is mainly caused by a rich air and lean fuel condition but it can also be caused by a lean air and rich fuel condition this situation rarely occurs and is only caused by the misinformed weekend warrior that owns a toolbox. If the bike has been sitting for months or years you will have to completely disassemble the carburetor and submerge the parts (except rubber parts) in "Carburetor Dip" It usually comes in a gallon bucket with a wire mesh basket that can be purchased at any automotive store. If it is not the above scenario then the following explanation will apply.
The more you open your throttle the more vacuum you are creating in your carburetor venturi and your intake manifold. When you are operating at higher RPM any unmetered air that leaks into your system can become more obvious.
Unmetered air is the air that is getting into your system after the fuel has been delivered. If you have unmetered air getting into your system between the butterfly/slide of the carburetor and the cylinder head this will create a lean condition.
All of the rubber components of the fuel system like vacuum hoses and intake manifold that you mount the carburetor to are made of rubber. If none of these components has been changed they are more than likely highly degraded and probably cracked in places to allow unwanted-unmetered-contaminated air into the combustion chamber. Check all of your vacuum lines and vacuum plugs for carburetor synchronization. The vacuum plugs are in the head just after the rubber intake manifolds. The petcock has a vacuum line as well as part of the emission system.
1. Check the intake manifold for fissures.
2. Ensure the bands used to tighten the manifolds down on the intake are secure and have not bound up the manifold.
3. Make sure air box fittings are not warped and fit completely over the carburetor.
Your airbox is metering air and is the first step in the process of consuming air and fuel. The system requires the resistance of the air filter in order to get the proper vacuum to "SUCK" the fuel out of the float bowl and create the proper venturi effect.
Improper mounting and sealing of the airbox will create a small lean effect. This might seem like no big deal but you are inviting dust and debris in your engine that is doing slow damage by not having proper fitment. Fix it so you know it's not contributing to your issue. Pick the low-hanging fruit first.
Do not go and start adjusting anything at this point. It ran fine before. There is something wrong with the assembly or a component. Do not adjust your floats. Get it back to where it was. The moment you start tweaking everything is the moment you lose OEM settings which are a must-have for fine-tuning and maximum performance.
Fine-tuning your carburetor and multi carb syncing come at the very end following the proper procedure established by the Carburetor Gods.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1053317-06-crf450r-still-bogs/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B3Zv1OcIfjk
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/808664/Honda-Crf450x-2005.html#product-2005%20CRF450R
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/667788/Honda-450x-2005.html#product-CRF450X%202005

Posted on Jun 02, 2020

ray gallant

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  • Honda Master
  • 68,332 Answers

IT COULD BE THE SPARK ARRESTOR IS PLUGGING UP

Posted on May 18, 2020

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 17 Answers

SOURCE: 1993 Ford Tuarus Gl IN NEED OF HELP!

Well this could be in your timing. As cars get some miles on them the timing chain stretches therefore causing you car to lose alot of power.So you may want to have your timing set on this car. Also I had a taurus that had a bad torque converter, and it lost alot of power on hills and under loads, also when i gunned the gas pedal. so try the timing first. Hopefully you dont have a bad head gasket or a cracked head these symptoms you are describing are all signs of head gaskets or blown heads

Posted on Sep 04, 2008

eddie27970

  • 14 Answers

SOURCE: Starts fine, but will not accelerate: Homelite UT-10798R

Do you have the H and L adjuster screws on the carb? If so, then normally I'd back out a little bit on the L (low speed side of carb) The instructions for adjusting carbs, years ago, on 2-stroke, say to back out on the L when motor will not rapidly rev up. Most 2-stroke carbs have these 2-jets. The L is for gas to pass to motor with butterfly throttle plate closed. When opening throttle plate, there is a sudden rush of air, at first, and this L adjustment is allowing enough gas to pass for motor to begin to rev. up. Then the gas will also flow through another small port H, usually a small brass tube in the venture area (smallest diameter section of carb). You adjust the H with the throttle wide open, motor revved up. Turn either in or out slightly till highest RPMS reached, motor smooth and fast, then turn H out about 1/4 turn. The idea is to run motor slightly rich for highest HP when under load (cutting). Hope this helps

Posted on Nov 19, 2008

ollie reece

ollie reece-jones

  • 1167 Answers

SOURCE: Low-end Bog

tried this on the carb turn the mixture screw in a 1/4 of a turn

Posted on Oct 09, 2009

Testimonial: "I runnin 32:1 with ninety two octane gas"

Geoff watson

  • 164 Answers

SOURCE: 2005 kx250f wont idle.will idle fine w/choke

the fact that it idles with the choke on indicates that fuel mixture is the problem here remove the mixture screw completely check that the o ring seal is not damaged & that the end of the needle is not worn or bent if either of these conditions are obviouse replace the damaged or worn parts general rule of thumb with mixture adjustment is 1&1/2 to 2 turns out give it a try

Posted on Feb 23, 2010

Tyler Edge

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: i have 1999 dodge ram 1500 5.2L. idles good a little low but good but when accelerating motor bogs down and tries to stall. is that my M.A.P. sencor?

I have 1999 Dodge 1500 gas motor. It has a high idle and when I let off the gas it stalls out. The truck also has a engine light on. What do I do??????

Posted on Aug 05, 2012

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2009 Honda CRF450R no spark


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Fouled spark plugs.
2. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
3. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Loose connection at ignition coil or plug between ignition sensor and module.
5. Spark plug cables in bad condition, shorting/leaking, spark plug cable connections loose check for spark leakage in the dark.
6. Faulty ignition coil or electronic control module.
7. Faulty pulse coil.
8. Faulty CKP, CMP, or BAS sensor.
9. Faulty ignition switch.
10. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
11. Security alarm failing to disarm needs reset
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
09 CRF450R and no spark
09 crf 450 no spark
Honda CRF450X 2005 Service Manual
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda
Honda 2005 CRF450R Owner Manual

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

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1 Answer

2009 Honda CRF450R BACKFIRES ON COLD STARTS


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
2. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
3. Faulty main circuit breaker and or connections.
4. Faulty ignition coil and or connections.
5. Faulty spark plug, oil or gas fouled, wrong heat range or service type, wrong gap, loose in the cylinder head, broken electrode or insulator.
6. Faulty spark plug cables, leaking or broken, internal damage check for spark leakage in the dark.
7. Faulty ignition module, switch, CKP, MAP, CMP, sensor and or any connector in the ignition circuit could have corroded, loose, or broken pins/sockets
8. Burnt exhaust valve or air leak in the exhaust system.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://crfsonly.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=25387
03 CRF450R Hard to start when cold and backfires bad on decelleration
Honda CRF450X 2005 Service Manual
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda
Honda 2005 CRF450R Owner Manual

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

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2007 Honda VTX1300R engine bogs at low rpm


Hi, Luis if you have changed your fuel delivery system, air filter size or flow rate, mufflers or exhaust system or a significant change in altitude your carburetors need re-tuning and if your fuel system (gas tank, filters, fuel valve and carburetor) is contaminated with ethanol sludge, varnish, rust, dirt, water etc. or your bike has been sitting for months or years without running these components must be "PROPERLY" cleaned and reassembled "CORRECTLY" before any adjustments can be made. Tuning your carburetor is fairly simple once you understand the basic principals. You engine is a simple airbox sucking air in and blowing it out, it is finely tuned at the factory for maximum performance once you upset that delicate balance by changing air filters, camshafts or exhaust systems your performance may go down the and the engine may run poorly, you need to compensate the air-fuel mixture in the carburetor in order for the engine to run smoothly and at peak performance. If you are running multi carburetors you need to sync them first and make sure your air cleaner element is clean and dry for paper elements or lightly oiled for foam and meshed elements and properly installed. Here is how and where you compensate trouble: "TIP" if your engine "BOGS" you're not getting enough fuel.
1. Close to 1/8 throttle is managed by the air screw and pilot/slow jet.
2. 1/8 to 1/4 throttle is managed by the air-screw, pilot/slow jet, and throttle slide.
3. 1/4 to 1/2 throttle is managed by the throttle slide and jet needle.
4. 1/2 to 3/4 throttle is managed by the jet needle, needle jet, main jet, and air jet.
5. 3/4 to wide open throttle is managed by the main jet and air jet.
6. Wide open throttle is managed by the main jet.
If you are running lean, spark plug electrode color is white, engine runs hot and feels like it is starving for fuel you need to go up on the jet size or move the c-clip down one notch. If you are running rich, spark plug color is black or dark gray, the engine runs cool, and bogs down when accelerating you need to go down on jet size or move the c-clip up one notch. When your carburetor is properly tuned for maximum performance your spark plug electrode will be a light tan color like coffee with cream. If you prefer fuel economy over performance you can go down on main jet sizes until a satisfactory level of lower performance is acceptable versus MPH, your spark plug color will be whiter and your engine will run warmer. These tuning adjustments will only make improvements if your intake and exhaust system have no air leaks or sealing issues and the entire electrical system is in proper working order and you have no mechanical issues.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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http://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda
Honda 2007 VTX1300S Owner Manual

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

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Serious bog!


Sparks plugs and coils check them adjust rev on the engine and you are free to go

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1 Answer

Solution for Honda crf450r overheating


Hi, Davincik66 and the usual suspects are:
1. Engine oil level and SAE weight are too low or not circulating.
2. Insufficient or blocked air flow over the engine.
3. Heavy combustion chamber carbon deposits.
4. Ignition timing retarded due to faulty MAP, CKP, or CMP sensor.
5. Carburetor jetted too lean.
6. Leaking intake or exhaust valve.
7. Water coolant old or low change every two years.
8. Water pump failure.
9. Radiator clogged, cap loose or malfunctioning.
10. Radiator fans not coming on.
11. Clutch slipping, brakes dragging, heavy load, towing a trailer etc.
12. Idling too long without moving.
13. For constant hot weather temperatures, mountain, or desert riding conditions consider adding an oil cooler and or cylinder head cooler.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
CRF450R Overheating
http://www.proride.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=79600.0
Honda CRF450X 2005 Service Manual
http://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda
Honda CRF450R Owner Manual

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

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1 Answer

2011 Honda CRF 450 R Back Fire Problems


Hi, Greg, love that first name, and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
2. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
3. Faulty main circuit breaker and or connections.
4. Faulty ignition coil and or connections.
5. Faulty spark plug, oil or gas fouled, wrong heat range or service type, wrong gap, loose in the cylinder head, broken electrode or insulator.
6. Faulty spark plug cables, leaking or broken, internal damage check for spark leakage in the dark.
7. Faulty ignition module, switch, CKP, MAP, CMP, sensor and or any connector in the ignition circuit could have corroded, loose, or broken pins/sockets
8. Burnt exhaust valve or air leak in the exhaust system.
9. Improper valve clearance (too tight).
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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crf450r backfiring on start up
Honda CRF450X 2005 Service Manual
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda
Honda CRF450R 2011 Owner Manual

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

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1 Answer

I have a 2007 CRF450R that pops just off idle while accelerating. Mid to full throttle no problem.Pops while decelerating ,too.Also off idle pop goes away when engine is hot but decelerating pop still...


Hi, Kpapalko180 if your carburetor/exhaust is:
COUGHING is usually caused by an air leak in the intake system and will generally have the same telltale signs, a wet or damp buildup of oil/gas seepage at the intake manifold to cylinder head or carburetor to intake manifold connection and in rare instances a worn throttle plate shaft and or seals.
POPPING on deceleration is usually caused by a lean fuel condition or an air leak in the exhaust system and is generally located where black carbon soot is seen as a flashing build up from any joint connection. This condition can easily be remedied by removing and cleaning both joint pieces and reassembling with high temp silicone and torquing the exhaust clamp to the proper spec.
SPITTING is usually caused by a faulty accelerator pump and or nozzle, or the float bowl needle and seat leaking and overflowing through the main jet mixing well nozzle, or the air-fuel mixture screw is adjusted too lean.
BACKFIRING is usually caused by a sticky/tight intake valve or a timing issue, 180 degrees out or cam chain off 1or 2 teeth.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
2005 crf450 Popping
https://www.crfsonly.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=31409
Honda CRF450X 2005 Service Manual
http://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda
Honda CRF450R Owner Manual

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

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1 Answer

Dirtbike eahaust pipe comprison -which is best


I know there were a few different models: X440S only FMF Powercore aluminum silencer/stainless header combo E440/C440 standard header/silencer with midpipe attached (long can) (2 spark arrestors) S440 standard header/shorty silencer with seperate midpipe (1 spark arrestor) X440 standard header/silencer (NO spark arrestors) Just wondering whether anyone has ever done any hp tests between these. From my experience the X440 can would flow the best because of the lack of spark arrestors but I'm wondering how the FMF powercore compares? The FMF has shorter header runners leading to the merged portion so the shorter header should deliver more low end torque. Also do I have the S440 can info right, only 1 spark arrestor in the shorty?,The so-called S440 pipe did not have a separate midpipe. It had a fixed welded inlet, same as the longer can, and was full open. Also, I have a New 03 X440 here with the SAME exhaust, ...but another with a long and full-open version. So, you really cannot tie all exhaust versions to a particular model, since too many owners will get confused. Everybody would need to check their own machine to be sure. But if ANYBODY out there has a separate midpipe?, I'd really like to confirm wazzup -- Up until now, I have thought that the only ones around are from the small batch that I had found over in Holland. And, on just a few bikes that were assembled in Europe just prior to the bankruptcy. ,,,

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