Question about Hotpoint Refrigerators
FREEZER /FRIDGE NOT COOLING:Optimumrefrigerator temperature at or below40° F(4° C). The freezer temperature should be0° F(-18° C). Check temperatures periodically. Appliance thermometers are the best way of knowing these
Checkurcold control thermostat,urthermistorsin both fridge and freezer ( they should be checked for both ohms and for amount of current being put out as perurmodel ),urair flow vent from freezer to fridge.( to make sure it opens and closes without any restrictions) Onthermistorscheck for A close circuit and amount of ohms not just an Ohm reading. As perurmodel. Most shouldatleastshow 1200 ohms. Also Check door seals for leakage.
Poorcooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.
If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.
FAN check to see if it is operating or restricted A fan that is not blowing or restricted will not circulate the cold air properly.
Often, the first thing that folks do when their refrigerator starts to feel warm is turn both controls on the coldest settings.This is exactly the WRONG thing to do.Turning the cold control to the coldest settingwillkeep the compressor running longer and make lots of cold air.But turning the air door to the coldest settingclosesthe airway to the food section. Lots of cold air is made, but most of it stays in the freezer section, and the food section actually getswarmer.
Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.
May also need to check thedefrost timer, u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engageurdefrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providingurterminator is not bad?
Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Placeurmeter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.
Takeurmeter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Nowur1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u knowurtimer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..
If you hear a clicking sound coming from the back of your refrigerator/freezer, then the problem is most likely the compressor,relay and or capacitoris overheating or not getting proper power and will not start.The compressor is the component on your refrigerator that allows your refrigerator to cool. If this component is not working properly your refrigerator will stop cooling. Most of the time the compressor is not the component that has failed.
To checkurcompressor with multi meter:
Disconnect and remove the relay and capacitor from compressor, somelocated next to compressor in a casing.
You wills see 3 prongs coming out of compressor. 1 goes tourstart winding, 1 goes tourrun winding and the center goes tourground.
Placeurmeter connector or prong on the start prong and the other on the ground (center prong) take note of the reading in OHMS for example 5 ohms.
Next place meter prong on run prong and the center ground prongagin. Take note of the reading in OHMS. Example 4 ohms
Next place meter prong on the start prong and the other on the run prong, now take note of the reading example 9 ohms. Now match the total of this ohms test with the total ofurtwo separate test. 9 ohms, if they matchurok give or take 5 percent plus or minus. One more test to make to test of there is a short in compressor attach meter prong to ground prong and rub the other end of meter prong to metal ( scrape the metal clean of paint and test on metal surface not painted surface. If it shows continuity or ohms , u have a short inurcompressor. It should show infinity
TO REPLACE RELAY AND CAPACITOR WITH A HARDSTART KIT YOU CAN USE
A3 in 1 start kit for compressors sizes 1/4 through 1/3 HP. And a 5 in 1 for higher H.P. (BE SURE TO MATCH WITH UR COMPRESSOR MODEL NUMBER AND TYPE) Thekit includes relay, capacitor, andoverload device, pre-wired. Thekit will replace all 3 electrical components on capillary refrigeration systems. For newer systems with a run capacitor use?proper kit. For smaller horsepower compressors useTJ90RCO810.
The wire set up is as follows the red wire goes to the right side of compressor prong, the white wire to the left side prong, the black wire to the center prong, and the 2 other black wires go to the power and the ground connection
Lastly you should also checkurTHERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 13000 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required.
1-3 TEMPERATURE CONTROL
As the food in the fridge gets colder, it gives off less heat, and the air inside the fridge will remain colder. A thermostat called aCOLD CONTROLwill cycle the cooling system on and off to keep the temperature inside your fridge within a certain range. You can adjust that range using one of the dials within your fridge.
On most fridges, all the cold air for both the food compartment and the freezer compartment is produced in one evaporator. Since the freezer is so much colder than the food compartment, most of the cold air that is produced circulates to the freezer compartment. Only a small amount is needed in the food compartment to keep it down to the proper temperature. This amount is adjusted by a smallAIR DOORin the duct between the evaporator and the food compartment. The control for this air door is the other of the two dials within your fridge.
If you hear your compressor "short-cycling" (starting and stopping at short intervals) try jumping across the two leads of the cold controlthermostat ( in the fridge compartment)with an alligator jumper.You can also check both for live voltage current and ohms-If there is a greenthirdlead, ignore it for this test; it is the ground wire. If the fridge starts running constantly, the cold control is bad. Replace it.
To test or change the coldcontrol, firstPull the knob off it and remove any plastic cover plateor housing from it.
You will see two wires leading to it. There will also be a thick, stiffCAPILLARY TUBEattached. The capillary tube is the liquid-filled temperature-sensing element of the cold control, and operates in the same manner as a thermometer
The air damper, baffle or diffuser is the device that balances the air flow from the evaporator fan housing. This normally is a mechanically controlled baffle or flapper that controls the amount of cold air entering the fresh food compartment. If the baffle is damaged or the linkage to the control knob is damaged, then you may not have enough cold air entering the fresh food compartment resulting in higher than normal temperatures. This baffle or damper will be located where the cold air enters the fresh food compartment.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KqXN-ZCuptk THIRMISTOR CHECK
Posted on Mar 29, 2020
Can you hear the compressor running? Is the fan inside the freezer running? It could be that a wire connection has come loose during the move. Was the fridge laid on it's side during the move? If so you probably have compressor oil restricting the refrigerant system. If compressor and fan are running you will probably need a qualified refrigeration tech to check it out.
Posted on Oct 03, 2007
SOURCE: Beko frost free fridge freezer,
sounds similar to mine. Find the source of the bubbling noise (defrost timer at the bottom), remove the cap and advance the timer with a screwdriver. If you fridge starts working, your defrost timer is faulty.
Posted on Jul 28, 2008
this is not unusual on any make. the cracking noise is the cabinet creaking with change in temperatue. don't worry about it
Posted on Oct 18, 2008
We have just had to call out an engineer to get our 1 1/2 year old Hotpoint Graphite Frost Free Fridge Freezer repaired. The fridge had almost entitely stopped cooling even when on high. I was amazed at how easily the problem was sorted. The engineer removed all the basktes from the freezer to access the screws on the inside backpanel of the freezer. Once this panel was removed it was clear that the so called Frost Free doesn't really mean what it says. The ice need to be melted with a bit of simple care. It is obvious that with a bit of care it is easliy a diy job BUT PLEASE BE CAREFUL AND READ THE NEXT PART BEFORE YOU BEGIN TO REMOVE THE ICE> The ice forms around variouys pipes etc and he usecd a screwdriver to help release the ice quicker than waiting for it to defrost and he also used a simple hairdryer to help speed up the process. He had a ntowel and a basin to take care of the water. Next time I would have no problem doing this myself but I would need to leave it a little while to defrost and NOT USE A SCREWDRIVER as I am sure somehow I would puncture a pipe or the wall of the freezer itself and I am quite used to doing the odd bit of DIY. On a difficulkty scale of 1 to 10 with 10 being difficult I would rate the job as about a 3. Hope this helps anyone who reads this about £70.
Posted on Dec 27, 2008
SOURCE: bosch intelligent frost free 40
The small drain pipe on the back of the fridge gets clogged, hence no drainage when defrosting, hence ice blocks the airflow between the freezer compartment and the fridge compartment.
Remove the rubber stop from the drain pipe and clean (can be found above the motor)
Defrost the fridge for a few days (it takes at least 48 hours). During this time, if you are not brave enough to remove the internal panels of the freezer and continually clean the water, check for water coming out and clean.
If during the defrost there is no water coming out the drain pipe, use about 2m of flexible and strong wire to clean the pipe.
The aim is to unblock the pipe once the ice has melted.
Posted on May 12, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
Jun 19, 2016 | Hotpoint Refrigerators
Sep 01, 2011 | Hotpoint FFA90 Bottom Freezer Refrigerator
If there is no cooling at all , before we go further we must confirm the first step of confirming the compressor and gas pressure. So shut off the fridge and leave it off while you clean and check the evaporator for frost. If frost is seen it is a good indication as the compressor is working with sufficient gas within.
Now after about 6 hours plug in the fridge to start. Observe cooling to happen in about one hour and ice to from under three hours.
Earlier make sure that the thermostat was set to normal mode for freezer and fridge.However if Ice forms then observe the fridge for about 24 hours for cooling to continue and the fridge to cut off . If not the auto defrost timer, or the thermostat must be checked.
If defrost timer works but frost keeps forming check while the compressor shuts if the heaters are working, check continuity of the heaters.
So try this test from the outside and make your observations so that we come to the solution.
Jul 05, 2011 | Refrigerators
Mar 16, 2011 | Hotpoint HSS25IFMCC / HSS25IFMWW Side by...
Oncce the fridge was shut off and left for a while the cooling had come back . If frost is seen it is a good indication as the compressor is working with sufficient gas within.
If after about 6 hours you observe cooling it is possible that the defrost timer is faulty.
Earlier make sure that the thermostat was set to normal mode for freezer and fridge.
However if Ice forms then observe the fridge for about 24 hours for cooling to continue and the fridge to cut off . If not the auto defrost timer, or the thermostat must be checked.
If defrost timer works but frost keeps forming check while the compressor shuts if the heaters are working, check continuity of the heaters.
replace the defrost timer, heater or thermostat one you have confirmed to eliminate one by one.
Mar 11, 2011 | Hotpoint Â 14.9 Cu. Ft. Top-Freezer...
Dec 22, 2009 | Hotpoint 24 in. FDW60 Free-standing...
Jul 23, 2009 | Refrigerators
Jul 05, 2009 | Hotpoint Refrigerators
Dec 15, 2008 | Hotpoint FFA60 Bottom Freezer Refrigerator
Mar 05, 2008 | Refrigerators
140 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: